I've not had the good fortune to meet Despina Vitouni personally (yet!): but every time she posts I am riveted by her stories. Many of her antecedents are from Cappadocia--a region near the very heart of Anatolia (yes, Turkey) which was largely Greek-speaking and Orthodox up to the 20th Century. Not many people realize that a thousand years ago, virtually all of Asia Minor was Greek speaking (yes, I know there were lots of Kurds running around even back then, and probably dozens of other ethnicities that were subsequently absorbed by Turk or Greek)...
Despina regularly publishes images from various parts of Anatolia, showing the dwindling vestiges of Rum (which is what the Byzantines called their Kingdom). Those living in Rum were often Greek-speaking, and Orthodox. They may have known they were Hellenes, but would never have called themselves that, let alone "Greek" (A Latin word Greeks eschew). They would cave called themselves Rumioi--"Romans" for the Byzantine Empire saw itself as the continuation of Rome...
I have no illusions: I know the Byzantines were pretty fierce, and not exactly tolerant towards other religions. The Ottomans were probably much better during their long and strange Empire: if you've ever read Edmondo De Amici's absolutely charming (if perhaps somewhat fantastic) Constantinople written in the twilight of the Ottoman empire (1877) you would see a remarkable City (and Empire) that practically exemplified that most elusive of phenomena--namely Diversity. The City (as the Greeks called it) encompassed dozens of cultures, languages, religions and ethnicities with remarkable harmony considering the brutal age... De Amici's Constantinople is much more like London is nowadays, or New York than the Istanbul of Erdogan, who is wreaking a reign of terror on non-Muslims (and more precisely, non-HIS-brand-of Muslims) and wiping out what little diversity is left in that once imperial city. The ultimate ethnic joke is that if Edogan did that little DNA test that's so popular, I'm sure he's more Byzantine than Kazak.
I have long fantasized what it might have been like for me in the 19th Century, were I to have explored the hinterlands of Anatolia. Most every town would have a Greek-speaking quarter--whole villages would have been composed of Greeks. There would have been (and still are) areas where Greek is spoken and the population is Muslim. There would be Karamanlis, who were Orthodox Christians but spoke only Turkish. Turkey is every bit as beautiful today as it would have been back then--but today the minorities (except for the Kurds) are pretty much gone. Or in hiding. I have many Turkish friends I am very fond of--I don't begrudge them their country. Just wish they'd left a few more bits here and there, and a few other threads of color in the Kilim.
And this is what the Fundamentalists would like to wreak upon America: a homogenous bland uniformity.
Thanks you, Despina, for rescuing the Kilimi and the memory of your ancestry from that mythic past. According to our family mythology, the first Kelaidis escaped The City after its fall, and sailed to Crete. He loved to sing, and was dubbed "Singer" ("Kelaidi: he sings like a bird")...
His original title was "Archon" or Counsellor--and he presumably served in the Byzantine court in some capacity. And I have no doubt that our family ultimately traces far back into Anatolia as well. So Facebook has inadvertently reconnected me perhaps with my ancestral home, and a distant and delightful cousin! Γεια σου Δέσποινα, και ευχαριστώ! [Greetings, Despina! And thanks].
After I posted this, I provided a link to Despina and asked her if she had comments or corrections: she added these two very useful responses to what I had published above I'd like to share (with her permission):
Despina Vitouni's scholia:
1st Correction: Cappadocia was largely Turkish speaking due to a process of turcification of their Cappadocian Greek language. This Cappadocian Greek was the evolution of Byzantine Greek and due to its isolation it acquired its own special characteristics. For example there are many Greek archaisms in the Farasa dialect which I am studying as much as I can, plus Persian words via Turkish of the time but with Greek and ancient Greek suffixes. There were some 34 Greek speaking villages, all cities were Turcophone, and the Greek speaking villages were mostly unmixed, I suspect this and the isolated position of some such as Varasos or Farasa was what helped in the continuance of their language and avoidance of changing into Turcophony. As happened with most of Greek settlements and as was documented by linguist R. M. Dawkins, who in 1911 found villages known as speaking the Cappadocian Greek dialect 50 years ago now speaking entirely Turkish, with the exception of some elders. That is the proof that Karamanlides were not always Karamanlides = Turcophone Rum or Greeks. In the course of centuries living under and with the Turkish speaking Muslims, they were linguistically assimilated and not -they at least-- in religion or in their identity. Their identity was mostly Byzantine Greek. Greek identity, in the sense of ethnicity, flourished in mid 19th century, when they were granted some liberties and so had churches built and schools with teachers sometimes from Greece. The Church also helped in this, especially some enlightened Clerics such as Caesarea (Kaiseri) Metropolitan Paisios B', who was a blessing to Cappadocian Greeks and a Farasiot and put emphasis on education. I can check the number of the Grecophone villages tomorrow, but they are around 34.